Tuesday – following the trail of the Coahuila 1000
I awoke about 6 am, fully rested from 10 hours sleep. My body felt good but my hands and forearms were still noticeably fatigued from the previous day’s ride. I’m not accustomed to 9 hours of nearly non-stop riding, most of it dirt.
The day began with a glorious sunrise.
Our bikes were in the same spot we left them the night before, which is always a good thing.
My trip meter reading from the day before.
After packing our bikes JT and I rode to the center of town, hoping to find breakfast and someone selling gasoline. Raul showed up and directed me to Martin’s (pronounced Mar Teen) place. Martin sells gas out of 55 gallon drums and is a living, breathing example of free market capitalism in action. Raul told us to ride past the school and look for the green house. That’s Martin’s place. He stores the gas in the pink building. We headed off to Martin’s place and Raul went off in search of the owner of the Boquillas Restaurant to see if they would open up and feed us breakfast.
JT and I located Martin and asked about gas. He told us he had plenty and directed us to the pink building. With his daughter supervising and the dog on guard duty, Martin filled both our bikes with much needed gasoline.
Mexico gas smells very different than gasoline in the USA- either the refining process is different or the additives they use down south are not the same, but it has a distinctive smell – and I could tell by the smell alone that this was definitely Mexican gas. Unfortunately, Martin didn’t have any premium gas, which my Husky prefers.
While the refueling operations were underway, this little girl, with encouragement from her Mom (Martin’s daughter), gave me her sales pitch for the craft items they sell to tourists. She doesn’t speak English so her pitch consisted of looking at me and holding out the bracelets and koozies toward me. Selling handmade crafts to tourists comprises an important part of their income and since we were the only tourists that would be here today (remember, the border crossing is closed) I figured we would be her only sale of the day.
I bought a bracelet and JT bought a koozie.
I estimate that we bought about 8 gallons of gas for a total cost of $32. I only had $20 bills and Martin didn’t have change, so I paid him $40. He invited us to his house for breakfast, telling me his wife would make us a fine meal at no cost. I thanked him but declined, letting him know we had already asked the Boquillas restaurant to open for us but that if those plans went bad we would gladly take him up on his kind offer.
Meanwhile Raul had been successful at getting the restaurant to open.
The skull has the words No Al Muro – “no to the border wall” – painted on it. Not surprising, they are against the border wall as it would once again kill this little village.
Breakfast consisted of eggs and chorizo (Mexican sausage), refried beans, flour tortillas and a coke. It was hot and good but expensive. $18 was the bill for the two of us. Still, I was happy to have a cooked breakfast rather than cold jerky, trail mix and water.
A note about prices: Boquillas is a tourist town, a fact reflected both in the prices quoted and the currency of choice. Everything costs about twice what you would pay in non-border towns and the currency of choice is dollars. Plan accordingly and ensure you bring ample cash with you when you come here – they don’t take credit/debit cards.